Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a international community of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their younger generation do not want to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to explore these narratives and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
